This lunch menu was used at Fred Harvey’s Bright Angel Lodge on the south rim of the Grand Canyon. Bright Angel was a moderately-priced alternative to the famous El Tovar Hotel. Pictured on the cover is the Desert View Watchtower, located about 24 miles east of the hotels.
Click image to download a 1.4-MB PDF of this menu.
I happened to visit the Grand Canyon late last year, and when I was at the watchtower a woman expressed disappointment that it wasn’t, as it appears to be, a genuine Indian ruin. I told her I felt that way when I first visited, but now I appreciated that it was designed by Mary Colter, one of America’s first female architects. Colter is also credited with designing Bright Angel Lodge and several other buildings on the south rim.
The Watchtower in November, 2018.
On returning home, however, I learned that the claim that Colter designed these buildings is just as false as the idea that the watchtower is a real Indian ruin. It turns out that Colter, who was trained as an artist but not an architect or even in mechanical drawing (an essential skill for pre-autocad architects), freely took credit for the work of other architects, especially after they were dead.
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In False Architect, amateur historian Fred Shaw (his background is in banking) scrutinizes the architectural plans for each of the buildings claimed by Colter and shows that they were drawn by noted architects who did much work for Fred Harvey and Santa Fe. For example, Colter claimed that she assisted Charles Whittlesey in the design of El Tovar, but in fact she was a schoolteacher in St. Paul, Minnesota when that building was constructed, and she had nothing to do with it.
Then she claimed she designed a string of hotels and other buildings for Fred Harvey that in fact were designed by Louis Curtiss, who also designed several Santa Fe train stations. Shaw shows that design elements in the buildings claimed by Colter match those of Curtiss’ other buildings and the lettering on the architectural plans matches Curtiss’ lettering, not Colter’s.
Curtiss had died by the time the watchtower was built, but Shaw shows that both it and Bright Angel were in fact designed by Robert Raney, who — like Curtiss — was a Kansas City architect who did much work for Fred Harvey. (Raney’s Wikipedia page agrees that he designed the tower even as the page for the tower itself still claims it was designed by Colter.) Colter also claimed to have designed the enlargement of Santa Fe’s La Fonda Hotel, but Shaw found detailed journals of the actual architect, John Meem, showing that Colter was not involved except in interior design.
Colter was a talented decorator who was paid well by Fred Harvey to plan the interiors of many of its buildings (though not the original El Tovar). But that apparently wasn’t enough for her and she took credit for many things that were beyond her skill levels. After Colter died and the womens’ rights movement grew, a woman named Virginia Grattan (who happens to be the sister of a late friend of mine) wrote a biography lauding Colter as a woman breaking barriers, based largely on Colter’s statements without any serious verification.
Though some people accuse Shaw of misogyny for daring to question Colter’s (and Grattan’s) claims, the reality is that he was trying to write a biography of Louis Curtiss (who, as a gay architect in middle America had to deal with a different kind of discrimination) and was disturbed to discover that someone else had taken credit for many of the buildings that he knew Curtiss had designed. Regardless of who designed it, the Desert View Watchtower is an incredible building, but I’ll never look at it the same way again.